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EdgeleyLock & Key Co.
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Person holding the black deadbolt and doorknob of a partly open blue front door. — Deadbolt Installation, Sherwood
Two detached brass lock cylinders and four house keys on a wooden counter. — Lock Rekeying, Sherwood

Change or rekey · Sherwood

Deadbolt Installation in Sherwood

The bolt on the front door is keyed on both sides.

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In plain words

Steel-clad and fibreglass doors, the common insulated entry doors in newer subdivisions, take a deadbolt happily as long as they are cut for it properly. The skin is thin metal or resin over a foam core, often with a wood block at lock height, so the cross bore is made with a hole saw suited to the skin, at low speed, and the edge is finished with a plate rather than a chisel mortise. Solid wood doors in older homes are cut conventionally, with care for splitting at the edge. The locksmith reads the door before drilling and picks the method that leaves a clean opening and a true-running bolt.

Sound familiar?

The front door has a handsome lever and a keyed knob, and that is all. Nothing above it. When the door is shut, the only thing keeping it closed is a spring latch the width of a thumbnail, and you have started to notice.

How the visit goes

Deadbolt Installation

How the visit goes

Hands clamping a key blank in a key-cutting machine on a wooden bench, with a car remote, screwdriver and wire brush nearby. — Sherwood
Technician in a cap fitting a black mortise lock case into the edge of a wooden door beside an old knob plate. — Sherwood
  1. Which key should open it

    A deadbolt is also a key decision, so the locksmith asks how the household's keys are arranged now. If every door shares one key, the new cylinder can be pinned to that same key, provided the keyways match, so nobody's ring grows. If the house has just changed hands, this is the natural time to set the new bolt and the other exterior locks to a fresh key and retire whatever copies are out there. Restricted or high-security keyways, keypad models with a backup cylinder and locks that must match a rental building's system all steer the choice of hardware, and it is easier to settle this before the box is opened than after.

  2. Testing open, then closed, then keyed alike

    The finished lock is proved in three stages. With the door open, the thumb-turn and then the key are cycled several times to confirm the bolt throws fully and returns freely. With the door closed, the same tests show whether the bolt clears the strike opening and seats in the pocket; any drag is marked with chalk and the strike is dressed or shifted until the bolt moves with fingertip effort. If the cylinder is being keyed to the household key, it is repinned on the bench and tested from outside with the door closed, and every key that should work is tried before the tools go back in the van.

  3. A safer way out as well as a stronger way in

    With a thumb-turn inside, everyone in the household can leave through this door without hunting for a key, day or night. The locksmith walks the family through the thumb-turn and shows children how it turns. If a double-cylinder bolt was replaced, the inside key is no longer needed at all and can be retired. Where glass sits near the lock, whatever measure you agreed on, a thumb-turn that locks with its own small key, a laminated pane, or a tested security-film system that can delay an arm's reach, is in place, so security did not come at the cost of a clear way out.

Deadbolt Installation

In the van

  • Bolt faceplate or drive-in collar

  • Rekeying pins and key blanks

  • 75 mm (3 in) strike screws

  • Jamb reinforcer

  • Reinforced strike plate

Technician in a cap and clear glasses holding a yellow impact driver at the latch edge of a black door. — Sherwood

Deadbolt Installation

What affects the quote

  1. Finish and trim style

    Coated finishes built for salt and sun, matching trim for an existing handleset, and low-profile faces cost differently from a standard brass or nickel unit, and you choose the level.

  2. Number of doors

    One front door is the simplest case. Front, back, side and garage-to-house doors done in one visit share the travel and setup, so the per-door figure usually eases as the count rises.

  3. Door material

    Solid wood, steel-clad and fibreglass doors are each cut differently. Metal skins call for slower cutting and cleanup of filings, so the material is one of the first things a quote takes into account.

What to have ready

  • Do you own the home, rent it, or manage it for someone else?
  • Does anyone in the household have trouble with small knobs or stiff thumb-turns?
  • Is the door solid wood, steel-clad or fibreglass, and roughly how thick is it?
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Deadbolt Installation: questions

Questions
Do I need a deadbolt on the door from the garage into the house?

It is worth having. The door between an attached garage and the living space is in practice often the softest way in, since a garage door left open leaves a passage knob as the only barrier. A thumb-turn deadbolt there costs a few minutes a day and closes that gap.

What is the difference between a deadbolt and the lock in my door knob?

The knob or lever holds the door shut with a spring latch: a bevelled tongue that snaps into the frame and can be pushed back by anything slid into the gap. A deadbolt is a solid rectangular bar driven by the key or thumb-turn alone, and when fully thrown it locks in place so it cannot be pressed back from the edge. The knob keeps the door closed; the deadbolt keeps it locked.

How long should the bolt be?

The bolt should extend at least 25 mm into the frame, which is the standard throw for a dwelling's entrance doors and the length most residential deadbolts provide. Part of the bolt stays inside the door for support while the rest sits in the pocket. A hardened steel insert that spins under a saw blade is a common feature worth having on doors that face a street or laneway.

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