Change or rekey · Edgeley
Lock Replacement & Upgrade in Edgeley
The house is fifteen years old and every exterior door still wears the light hardware the builder fitted: a short bolt, a thin strike held by two small screws, and a knob lock that never suited a street entrance.
In plain words
Not every complaint about a lock ends in a new lock, and a good visit says so. A cylinder that turns stiffly may only need cleaning and fresh pins; a lost key calls for rekeying, which keeps the hardware and changes the key; a loose lever often wants a tightened spindle. Replacement earns its place when the mechanism is worn through, the housing is damaged, the grade was never adequate for the entrance, or you want a different function, finish or a keypad. The locksmith lays the three routes side by side so the choice rests on what the door needs rather than on what is in the van.
How the visit goesThe lever on the side door droops toward the floor and rattles in your hand. The latch no longer springs back on its own, so the door drifts open behind you unless you pull it shut and check it twice.
Lock Replacement & Upgrade
How the visit goes
Measuring the existing preparation
Before any product is chosen the door is measured. Backset first, the distance from the door edge to the centre of the bore, which on most doors here is 60 or 70 millimetres. Then the cross-bore diameter, the edge-bore size, the shape of the latch faceplate, the door thickness and the handing. The strike cut-out and any glass, trim or storm door that limits where hardware can sit are noted too. These few numbers decide which locks will drop straight into the door and which would need a filler plate, an extension kit or fresh drilling, so they are written down before the catalogue is opened.
Mounting the cylinder and the interior side
The exterior housing goes on with its tailpiece passing through the slot in the bolt, oriented as the maker specifies so the keyway sits upright. The interior thumb-turn or rose is offered up and the two long mounting screws are drawn down evenly by hand until firm, not crushed; zinc housings distort and threads strip under a drill, and an over-tight rose makes a lever heavy forever. On thick doors, extension kits bring screws and spindle to length. A knob or lever set adds the latch spindle and the spring cage, and the handle is checked to return crisply to level before the trim is snugged.
Every lock tried the way you will use it
Before the tools go back in the van, each lock is operated from both sides with the door open, then closed, then closed hard against the weatherstrip. The latch should catch on its own when the door swings shut, the deadbolt should throw to its stop with a fingertip on the thumb-turn and no shoulder on the door, and the key should turn without lifting or jiggling. You are invited to try each one yourself and to lock up behind the locksmith. Anything that felt marginal has been adjusted, so the door you close that night behaves the same as the one you tested.
Lock Replacement & Upgrade
In the van
Graded deadbolt
Handleset with matching deadbolt
Cylinders, plug follower and pinning kit
Manufacturer-approved cylinder lubricant
Adjustable latch or bolt
Lock Replacement & Upgrade
What affects the quote
Type of lock
A knob set, a lever, a deadbolt, a full handleset with deadbolt above, a patio door lock and a keypad or smart deadbolt each carry a different hardware cost and take different time to fit.
Restricted keyway system
Patented cylinders and controlled key blanks cost more than standard hardware and involve setting up your key records, which is quoted separately from an ordinary replacement.
Number of doors
One back door is a small visit; the front, back, side, garage man-door and patio slider together are a longer one, though several doors done at once share the travel and setup.
What to have ready
- Has the door been forced or damaged, or does it need a push to lock?
- Is there glass in or beside the door?
- Which finish should the new hardware match?
Lock Replacement & Upgrade: questions
QuestionsCan you replace the lock on a sliding patio door or French doors?
Yes. Sliding doors take a replacement mortise hook lock sized to the rail, often with a keyed exterior, and benefit from a secondary foot bolt or a pin through the frames. French doors are secured by treating the inactive leaf properly with flush bolts into the head and sill, then fitting a deadbolt to the active leaf with a strike into that reinforced edge. Both are routine parts of a residential upgrade.
What happens to the old lock?
It is yours. Some people keep a sound old cylinder as a spare or move a decent deadbolt to a shed or garage door, and the locksmith can rekey it to the house key for that purpose. Worn or damaged hardware is taken away for recycling if you prefer. Either way, the old keys should be gathered up and discarded so nobody confuses them with the new set.
Should I rekey my locks or replace them?
Rekey when the hardware is sound and the problem is the key: a lost copy, a move, or too many keys for one house. Replace when the mechanism itself is worn, the housing or bolt is damaged, the grade was never suitable for the entrance, or you want a different function, finish or a keypad. Many visits do both, keeping good locks and rekeying them while replacing the tired ones, all to one key.
